1920's - Coco Chanel
Coco
Chanel, a French fashion designer, epitomised the modern women. She
designed comfortable loose dresses and clothes that
were sporty, relaxed, wearable and well suited to the outdoor lifestyle
that was being promoted as healthy in the 1920’s.
These clothes were
designed to be worn without corsets and were make with fewer linings to
make them lighter and more flexible. Chanel believed that fashion must
meet the needs of modern lifestyles and give women freedom of movement.
In 1916 she began using kitted jersey fabric, a relatively cheap fabric
used for underwear and by the 1918 was producing cardigans and twinsets.
Chanel was one of the most influential designers of the 20th century. Her clothes broke away from the fussy over decorated clothing of the 19th century.
She
adapted men’s tailoring and produced classic suits with short skirts,
always relying on good cut, finish and high quality fabric. What we all
now consider to be normal part of women’s clothing – trousers, tweeds,
pea jackets, blazers and the little black dress were all introduced by
Chanel.
Fashion
became more widely available as clothing by designers were copied for
RTW – ready to wear. Clothing that had once only been available for the
wealthy was now available to women on the street. This was a dramatic
change for ordinary people who had previously only had every day and
‘best’ clothes that had to last for years. Even though it was still
unaffordable to most, this gave it a desirability factor.
The
production of RTW was an important turning point in the democratisation
of fashion. The very styling of the clothes themselves, together with
the lower prices means that social class was now immediately shown by
what you wore.
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